Highlander inflation, packing and pressure

Operating pressure for every Highlander (100, 120, 140T) is 10 psi minimum, 12 psi maximum — never more, it voids the warranty. Storage pressure should be 10 psi or less. Use a real gauge, not the guess-and-poke method, and never an air compressor.

Pressure rules

The Highlander is a drop-stitch inflatable — thousands of internal threads connect the top and bottom of the chamber, and at operating pressure they pull tight enough that the panel becomes structurally rigid, riding like a hard kayak instead of a pool toy.

• Under 10 psi the deck flexes underfoot, tracking suffers, and pedaling efficiency drops — 10 psi is the floor.
• Above 12 psi you're past the rated pressure for the seams and drop-stitch panels — it builds heat-cycle stress, raises the risk of seam separation, and voids the warranty. The manual is explicit: "Over inflation will void your warranty."
• In storage, holding full operating pressure (10–12 psi) for weeks is a constant stressor on the seams — that's why the ceiling drops to 10 psi between trips, and full deflation is right for anything longer.

Get the right gear

• A real digital pressure gauge. Any hand-pump gauge stays at zero until the boat reaches roughly 6 psi — normal, and a long stretch of pumping before it moves at all — so a separate digital gauge makes the last few psi, the ones that actually matter, easy to read. A separate digital gauge (~$20, any reputable double-action gauge with a Halkey-Roberts adapter) pays for itself the first trip.
• A pump that gets to 12 psi. The included dual-action hand pump is the only pump safe to use through the full range without risk of overshoot. A 12V electric pump or rechargeable inflator is fine for the first 80–90% (roughly 8–11 psi) per the manual, then finish by hand for the last stretch to avoid blowing past 12. Never an air compressor — it pushes too much air too fast to control and will overshoot 12 psi before you can react, which voids the warranty.
• A clean, flat surface — tarp, dock, sand, or grass, away from sharp gravel or embedded rocks.
• The last couple psi by hand takes real effort — you're pumping against an already-pressurized chamber. Switch hands and slow your strokes rather than rushing them, or inflate at home to about 10 psi, bring the pump along, and top off the last bit at the launch.

Finding the valves

Each Highlander inflates through a single primary valve in the floor (a Halkey-Roberts twist-lock) — one valve fills the whole boat (single-chamber design). Smaller secondary valves on the seat, and the elevated perch if equipped, use the same coupling and take about 30 seconds each.

The valve has two positions: UP = air goes in (inflation), DOWN = air comes out (deflation — press the pin and twist 90°). Open the cap by twisting counter-clockwise, and make sure the valve seat is clear of sand or debris before you connect the pump.

Inflate

1. Lay the boat out flat on your clean surface.
2. Open the valve cap and confirm it's in the UP position.
3. Connect the pump hose, then twist 45° clockwise onto the valve to lock it.
4. Pump with your knees bent and arms extended, using body weight rather than just your arms.
5. Keep going even if the gauge shows nothing at first — it doesn't register below 4 psi; the manual notes this is normal, just keep pumping for 2–3 minutes.
6. Bring it to 10–12 psi — 10 psi is minimum rigidity (a thumb still presses in slightly), 11 psi is the sweet spot for most fishing, 12 psi is max (rock-hard, a thumb won't depress it).
7. Walk around and press the sides — they should feel uniformly hard; a soft spot means top off or check for a slow leak before launching.
8. Inflate the seat and perch valves, about 30 seconds each.
9. Close the valve cap by twisting clockwise.

Full inflation takes 5–10 minutes by hand (faster on a 100, slower on the tandem 140T), or 3–5 minutes if you use an electric pump for the first 80–90% and finish by hand.

Adding the Traverse Pedal Drive? Remove the AirTrek window from the AirTrek Pod, install the drive's mounting collar with the provided hardware, inflate the boat to about 25% before inserting the AirTrek Pod (front arrow toward the bow), then continue to full inflation and follow the drive and rudder installation instructions.

Pressure shifts with temperature

• Hot launch: inflate to 10–11 psi in the cool morning and let it rise into range under sun load — don't start at 12 if it's about to get hotter. The manual is explicit that leaving the board in direct sunlight can cause over-inflation. If it feels rock-hard at the ramp, crack the valve briefly to bleed some air.
• Cold water: pressure drops as air contracts — a boat filled to 12 psi at 70°F can settle to roughly 10–11 psi in 40°F water. That's normal physics, not a leak. Top off at the put-in if you've trailered into much cooler weather; if it keeps dropping after topping off, that's a leak.

End of day: rinse, deflate, dry, pack

1. Rinse if you were in salt — hull, drive, rudder, seat — a 90-second freshwater rinse adds years.
2. Deflate: open the valve cap, push the valve button to DOWN and twist 90°, open the seat/perch valves at the same time, then roll the board from nose to tail by hand to walk the residual air out. Remove the AirTrek Pod before rolling.
3. Dry it before it goes in the bag — this is the step most boats get killed by skipping. Air-dry flat in the shade for 30–60 minutes and wipe off pooled water, or towel-dry if you're in a hurry. If you have to roll it up wet to leave the launch, unroll and air-dry it at home within 24 hours.
4. Roll, don't fold — starting from the nose, roll tightly toward the tail in one steady motion (folding creases the drop-stitch threads and weakens the panel over time). Aim for wide and even rather than tight and uneven.
5. Pack the bag: the rolled boat, secured with the provided strap, goes in with the disassembled paddle and the folded seat — valve capped and protected. Don't overtighten the zipper. The backpack has roller wheels for carrying it like a suitcase.

Storage

• Short-term (between trips): roughly 5 psi is fine if you want it ready to go — keep it under about 7 psi (50–60% of max) if it'll sit unused in the shade, and out of direct sun regardless.
• Off-season (a month or more): fully deflate, fully dry, roll (don't fold), and bag with the valve protected. Store indoors between 0–40°C (32–104°F), out of direct sunlight.
• Never: store at full operating pressure (10–12 psi) long-term — constant stress on the seams; leave it inflated in direct sun (raises pressure, ages the fabric); store it wet (mold, adhesive damage); or store it creased or folded (fatigues the drop-stitch).
• Use it — don't warehouse it. Both the Brand Book and the User Manual are explicit: long-term storage without use may cause adhesive failure. If you're off the water for an extended stretch, pull the boat out every couple of months and inflate it to operating pressure for a few hours to keep the seams flexed.

Is it leaking?

Drop-stitch fabric holds pressure for weeks under normal conditions. Inflate to 12 psi, and if it reads 11 psi an hour later, that's a temperature shift — not a leak. If it's down to 8 psi in the same hour, you've got a leak. Common causes, roughly in order of likelihood:

• Dirty valve seat — sand or salt in the threads. Hose it clean and try again; this fixes about 80% of "slow leak" reports.
• Valve pin left in the deflate position — push it down and turn until it lifts back into the inflation position.
• Loose pump hose — disconnect the pump after inflating and listen at the valve to rule this out.
• A puncture or tear — every Highlander ships with a repair kit; the manual documents a 6-step patch procedure using AQUASEAL glue, acetone, and a hairdryer. See the Highlander patch and repair guide.
• Seam separation (rare) — visible fabric pull at a seam. File the claims form.

Safety essentials

Quick reference

If something feels off — a sticky valve, a soft spot you can't top off, a slow leak — start with the Highlander patch and repair guide, or file the claims form for anything seam-related.