Caring for your Cajo

Rinse and dry after every outing, keep rigid hulls out of the sun, store inflatables dry and loosely rolled, and use your Highlander regularly to prevent adhesive failure.

Rinse and dry after every outing, keep rigid hulls out of direct sun, keep inflatables dry and loosely rolled, and don't let a Highlander sit unused for months at a stretch — that covers most of what keeps a Cajo fishing for years. This guide applies to every watercraft in the lineup (Outpost 100, Outpost 128, Terra 116, Highlander 100, Highlander 120, Highlander 140T) plus the Traverse Pedal Drive and Rudder System.

After every outing

Freshwater rinse — non-negotiable after salt. Bay, ocean, brackish, surf: rinse the hull (top and bottom, including scuppers and the drain plug area), the pedal drive (head, crank arms, lower unit, prop, indexer mechanism), the rudder (blade, U-connector, steering cables, pivot points), the steering handle, the foot pedals (including the tracks), and any accessory rails or mounted hardware. A garden hose is plenty — skip the pressure washer, which can drive water into sealed mechanisms.
Freshwater outings — rinsing is still good practice but less critical. At minimum, rinse off mud or visible debris.
Cleaning agents — mild soap, fresh water, and a soft, non-abrasive brush are safe for the hull; vinyl/UV protectant is fine. Skip automotive waxes and harsh chemicals — the HDPE doesn't like them and they won't stick. For inflatables, the rule narrows further: freshwater and mild soap only — no wax, no chemicals, no abrasives.
Drain the hull (rigid only) — pull the drain plug, tip the bow up, and let any water inside drain out. Standing water leads to mildew and weight gain over time.
Dry before storage — don't bag a wet pedal drive or store it with the drive socket full of water, and don't roll a wet Highlander into its bag (mold and adhesive risk). Air-dry everything first.

Ongoing checks during the season

Every couple of weeks:

Rudder cables — check at the handle and the U-connector for frayed strands or corrosion (especially on salt-fished boats), and turn the handle through full travel — it should feel smooth, not gritty. Fraying or binding is the steering-handle cable-binding issue — file the claims form and we'll replace it at $0.
Rudder pull-up cord — inspect for wear and fraying; if it's getting thin, contact support for a replacement.
Pedal drive seal — check where the prop shaft enters the lower unit. Milky water or grit inside the gearbox means stop using the drive and file a claim.
Hardware — walk the boat and confirm any accessory mount is still tight; vibration and temperature swings loosen hardware over time.
Inflatables (Highlanders) — inspect for cracks or scrapes on the drop-stitch panels, punctures or tears, dirt or sand in the valve seat, and loose D-rings or fasteners. Small punctures can be field-repaired — see the Highlander patch and repair guide.

Monthly:

Light marine lube on the U-connector pivot, the cable pulleys/steering routing points, and the pedal drive's exterior pivots. Use marine grease or a marine-grade silicone lube — not WD-40, which is a solvent, not a long-term lubricant.
Traverse Pedal Drive seasonal lubrication — lubricate at least once per season with marine-grade waterproof grease: remove the Allen plug on top of the upper unit housing, apply grease, reinstall and tighten; on the lower unit, remove the bump guard and Allen plug, apply grease, and reinstall both.
Bolt torque check — give the rudder pivot bolt, the drive retention mechanism, and any aftermarket accessory hardware a snug check without overtightening.

Rigid hulls (Outpost 100, Outpost 128, Terra 116)

Storage — do:

Short periods: store on its side or flat on a level surface.
Long-term: support the hull evenly along its full length to prevent warping (padded racks, sawhorses, or a custom stand all work).
Keep it cool, dry, and indoors when possible.

Storage — don't:

Don't store in direct sunlight — UV degrades HDPE over years.
Don't tighten straps too tightly — it distorts the shape.
Don't use the carry handles to support the kayak for storage — they're rated for short-term carry, not long-term hang.
Don't store top-down on suspended straps for months — it deforms the hull.

Spring check before the first paddle: walk the hull for warping, check the rudder for free movement and the cables for stiffness or corrosion, pedal a few revs on dry land to confirm the drive is smooth, top off any deflated cart tires and check the cart bolt torque, and rinse off storage dust.

Inflatables (Highlander AirTrek series)

Usage rules — always: inflate and hold pressure for a minimum of 24 hours before long trips; secure the seat, paddle, and parts to the board.

Usage rules — never: use an air compressor to inflate (over-inflates and voids warranty); drag the board (sharp objects can puncture it); leave it in direct sunlight or extreme temperatures.

Storage:

Clean with freshwater and mild soap, and dry it fully before rolling — a wet boat grows mold in the bag and trapped moisture damages the adhesive.
Roll loosely, nose to tail along the long axis — don't fold or crease.
Pack with the valve capped and protected.
Pressure: around 5 psi is fine short-term if you want it ready to go (stay under roughly 7 psi — 50–60% of max — if it'll sit unused in the shade); for off-season storage (a month or more), fully deflate. Never more than 10 psi in storage, and never store at full operating pressure (10–12 psi) long-term — it's a constant stressor on the seams.
Temperature: store between 0–40°C (32–104°F) — avoid hot attics, unheated garages in deep winter, and car trunks in the sun.
Never: leave it inflated in direct sunlight (heat raises pressure, UV ages the fabric), store it wet (mold and adhesive damage), or store it with extreme creases or folded panels (fatigues the drop-stitch).

Use it, don't warehouse it. Both the Brand Book and the Highlander User Manual are explicit: long-term storage without use may cause adhesive failure — drop-stitch boats are built to be used. If you know you're off the water for an extended stretch, pull the boat out every couple of months and inflate it to operating pressure for a few hours to keep the seams flexed.

Spring check before the first paddle: unroll and inflate to 10–12 psi, walk around and listen for hissing, hold pressure for an hour and recheck (temperature shifts aren't leaks — sustained drops are), inspect and clean the valve seat, and check the D-rings, gear tracks, and fin box for loose attachment points.

Dents and scratches (rigid hulls)

Minor dents — set the kayak in direct sunlight for 24 to 48 hours, then let it cool in shape. The HDPE relaxes and reflows on its own.
Light scratches — consider them a badge of honor. If you'd rather not, run a hair dryer on low heat over the area, keeping it moving, to lightly reflow the surface — scratches fade.
Skip automotive products — no Magic Eraser, headlight restorer, or rubbing compound. Heat is the fix; chemicals aren't.

Off-season storage

Beyond the hull and Highlander storage rules above, the two major accessories need their own off-season care:

Traverse Pedal Drive — rinse and fully dry before storing; remove it from the hull socket and store it separately if you can; lubricate it first if it's been a long season (marine-grade grease at the Allen plug points, as above); keep it indoors in a dry space, not an unheated garage in freezing climates; use the carrying case it shipped with.

Traverse Rudder System — on rigid kayaks, the rudder stays bolted to the boat: hose it down, dry it, and store it under the stern. On Highlander inflatables, remove the rudder kit before deflating and store it with the deflated hull — the Power-Pole Micro Spike mount holes are reinforced inserts in the inflatable floor, so the rudder hardware comes off cleanly.

Warranty at a glance

Lifetime limited warranty — manufacturing defects in the rigid hull (Outpost 100, Outpost 128, Terra 116).
2-year warranty — inflatable material (Highlander 100, 120, 140T).
5-year warranty — the Traverse Pedal Drive against major defects.

Not covered: damage from top-loaded landing-gear-style carts (Boonedox, Wilderness Freedom Launcher, Sidekick — we recommend the YakAttack TowNStow bunkster instead); normal wear and tear; damage from improper rigging, installation, or modification; impact, grounding, or collision damage; UV degradation beyond expected lifespan (a boat that chalks after a decade in the sun is expected — dramatic fade in one season isn't); inflatable punctures from misuse, which your patch kit covers, not the warranty; heat-related inflatable damage (direct sun, compressor overinflation, temperatures outside 0–40°C); and adhesive failure from long-term storage without use — using the boat is the prevention.

Full terms: How to file a warranty claim and Cajo warranty overview.

Know your limits

Be honest about your skill level — if conditions feel beyond your comfort or experience, stay on shore.
Use your boat as intended — most Cajo kayaks are built for protected waters and moderate currents, not heavy surf or whitewater unless designed for it.
Build skill on purpose — take a class, paddle with experienced partners, and practice new techniques in controlled conditions.
Wear a properly fitted, Coast Guard-approved PFD every time you're on the water — keep it on, not stowed.

When something looks off

Frayed cable, a leaking seal, cracked plastic, seam separation on an inflatable — anything wearing in a way it shouldn't — file the claims form. We'd rather diagnose early than have you fishing with a compromised part.